A MEETING WITH AZIZ, OWNER OF SILVANO TAILORING
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Today we experience a captivating conversation between Aziz (owner of Sartoria Silvano) and Nicolas Segura (President of Mesciu Gigi) where we explore his sartorial talents, and the intricate tapestry of his shop.
Nicolas: Aziz, how are you doing?
Aziz: I’m doing well. I started my day smiling, I’m with my clients, everything is great!
Nicolas: Amazing, that is so good to hear. Could you tell me where in the world we are right now?
Aziz: We are in New York, the business capital of the world. Wall Street is here, all of finance and trade is here as well. And I am here! My shop is located on the upper east side. We are totally back, the city is back, New York City is back!
Nicolas: Tell me a little about your background, how is it that you came to be the owner and head tailor of Sartoria Silvano?
Aziz: Well, I first got my start at seven years old as an apprentice in my hometown of Silvan, Turkey. Silvan was known for having a strong sartorial culture, so I was fortunate to have my start there from a young age. After many years, I moved to the United States at the age of 23. My dream was always to open my own shop. But I first had to gain more experience. So, I landed in Michigan where I worked first for a couple of years. Then I moved to New York City where I worked for Barney’s as a master tailor for many years. There, I was fortunate enough to meet people from all walks of life, including celebrities like Tom Cruise, Keanu Reeves, Vin Diesel, and many others. And it is through this experience that I became familiar with the world of fashion, designers, and top labels. Those years working at Barney’s really opened my eyes to a whole new world and it is with this experience that I decided to open my own shop – Sartoria Silvano.
Nicolas: What was it about opening a shop that appealed to you so much? Was it the independence? The artistic freedom that it gave you? Or something else?
Aziz: I always had a dream to open my own business. So, more than anything, it was my passion for tailoring and clothes that inspired me to open my shop.
I really wanted to share my knowledge and experience with others so that they could wear the best garments designed for them especially in a bespoke process. My commitment to this bespoke process set me apart from many others in the city, as not too many bespoke stores exist in NYC. And that’s what I came to realize when I was working at Barney’s where the majority of their products were ready-to-wear. I constantly had to adjust these generically sized suits to fit my clients doing all that I could so that these suits would properly fit them. And there would still be problems! That’s when I realized that there was a real market for these bespoke pieces as clients in New York really care about having unique pieces, with luxurious fabrics, that fit them perfectly. Garments that are made with them 100% in mind.
Nicolas: When you think about your brand concept, Sartoria Silvano, you mentioned the importance of bespoke wear. Could you explore that topic a bit more, and give the reader an idea of what that involves?
Aziz: My clients are the kind of people that are not looking for a generic suit. They want something special, a unique piece. So, I welcome them to my shop and explain my offerings. First, I tell my clients about the quality of my production. All of my suits are made in Italy by hand in the Neapolitan style. Second, I offer them different styles of suits. When they pick their preferred style, I introduce them to a wide variety of fabrics suitable to the style selected. I then offer my clients opportunities to personalize and accessorize their suits. Once done, I take my clients’ measurements. I then send the order to Italy where my team will begin work. After a couple of other fittings, the suit is finished, and my clients are happy! When they wear their bespoke suit, they see the difference. Everything is one of one and unique. They have the fabric and the style they want. They look smart and sharp in their suits. What more could you want!
Aziz, owner of Silvano Tailoring
Behind the scenes: Aziz and Nicolas
Nicolas: Speaking of the bespoke process, there are two main traditions that come to mind: the English tradition and the Italian. What was it about the Italian tradition that spoke to you so much?
Aziz: With my background and my experience at Barney’s, I came to understand exceptional tailoring. Trust me, I have close to fifty years of learning this art. I’m really particular and I’m really serious about proper tailoring. And in my opinion, the English are not good tailors. Instead, the Italians are good tailors. To me, the Italians are better at the cutting process, and to me that is the most important part. That’s not to say that I do not like the English. Quite the contrary, I think the English are exceptional at weaving fabrics. But that’s not to say that Italian fabrics are not also exceptional. In the end, my personal preference skews towards the Italian way of doing things.
Nicolas: What precisely is it about the Italian tradition of tailoring that distinguishes it from the English tradition?
Aziz: First, I like the Neapolitan style of tailoring. I became familiar with the great brands from Naples such as Kiton, Isaia, and Attolini during my time at Barney’s. And now for my store, when I travel to Naples, I am always in awe of the many local tailors I meet. Their technique is so refined, from the soft shoulder to its wearability. You really can tell that the level of artistry and hand finishing is elite.
Nicolas: I think you touched upon a very good point there. It brings us to the larger discussion of tailoring. For me, tailoring has always been associated with the artisanal: exceptional handmade handiwork, true craftsmanship, rich tradition. So, what do you think of the state of tailoring today, especially when you go to a store, and they offer you a suit and it is made by machine?
Aziz: A quality suit shows itself. A gentleman should not wear polyester fabrics. A gentleman should instead wear natural fabrics that are becoming of the artform, like pure wool. In fact, handmade tailoring shows the caliber of a suit and the quality of its production. At the end of the day, we are what we wear, the suit reveals itself. If we wear a cheap suit it will reveal itself. My clients would never accept a cheap suit. I’m for those clients and I stand by them. I, too, prefer hand finishing and a unique look. That is what Sartoria Silvano is all about.
Nicolas: It’s clear that the suiting process that you deliver for clients emphasizes the importance of handmade production, high-quality materials, and an overall high-quality craftsmanship. But I’ve noticed in your store you have other items for sale. Associated with Mesciu Gigi, you sell our outerwear. I’m curious what appealed to you so much about Mesciu Gigi. What was it about our outerwear that most excited you?
Aziz: When I first learned of Mesciu Gigi, I had a pleasant surprise when I first saw a photo of the Lecce coat.
Even with a photo, I could see the uniqueness of their production. Again, I am a particular kind of tailor who is very serious about his craft. I would never sell a cheap production in my shop. All this to say, that I respect Mesciu Gigi's approach and appreciate the quality of its garments. I love the style of Mesciu Gigi so much, I think their garments pair fantastically with my suits, especially the Lecce coat. And I know that my clients are happy with their product. The pairing of a Lecce coat with one of my suits is a really smart, city slick look. It really gets to the essence of what New York is all about. In fact, I prefer the Lecce coat - a light overcoat, over a heavy cashmere trench coat. The Mesciu Gigi Lecce coat is light, stylish, reversible – in two different colors, take it off, put it back on. When people see it, you feel the excitement and it in turn makes you happy. My clients love it! So, I am very happy, especially since in the USA there are not many similar styles on the market.
A gentleman trying on a Lecce coat in Silvano Tailoring
A quality suit shows itself. A gentleman should not wear polyester fabrics. A gentleman should instead wear natural fabrics that are becoming of the artform, like pure wool. In fact, handmade tailoring shows the caliber of a suit and the quality of its production. At the end of the day, we are what we wear, the suit reveals itself. If we wear a cheap suit it will reveal itself. My clients would never accept a cheap suit. I’m for those clients and I stand by them. I, too, prefer hand finishing and a unique look. That is what Sartoria Silvano is all about.
Nicolas: Can you explain a little bit of the store experience surrounding a Mesciu Gigi purchase. Since this is a bespoke store, are they able to order a made-to-measure garment or can you just get it ready-made? How’s the process work for someone interested in acquiring a Mesciu Gigi garment?
Aziz: I introduce them to the brand and the garments almost instantly, especially if they are looking for an outerwear piece. When they see Mesciu Gigi, they always remark “how nice.” But, overall it really just depends on the client. I have a lot of clients who work in professional trades and so prefer more conservative colors. But sometimes I get clients who prefer more vibrant colors. The great thing about Mesciu Gigi is that no matter the preference, they offer colors suitable to almost any environment. In fact, customers can order their personal preferences made-to-measure. A process which includes even greater personalization. If that is too time consuming, clients can also purchase ready-made pieces in store. So, I think Mesciu Gigi offers the best of both worlds.
Nicolas: I know you’ve been to Lecce recently. Can you elaborate upon that last visit and share with the audience your impressions of the city?
Aziz: I really wanted to go to Lecce since I first met the team behind Mesciu Gigi and its signature Lecce coat. I was interested, I wanted to see how the city inspired the production of the coat and learn how it made its way to the USA. When I first stepped into the city, I felt like I was in Roman Times. Though all Italian cities may be beautiful, Lecce is totally different. It really reminded me of my childhood in Silvan, an old city as well. Those Lecce streets, buildings, plazas, and the like created a magical atmosphere that felt so different, even to places like Rome! I remember saying ‘wow, this is such a beautiful city’. And then I met some of the team at Mesciu Gigi and I can confirm that they are doing great there. Oh, and the people there were so polite, much more so than in the north of Italy. All in all, it gave me good, positive vibes. I loved it!
Aziz's shop, located in New York City, U.S.
Nicolas: I know you’ve been speaking a lot about the Lecce coat, your first love when it came to Mesciu Gigi so to speak. Is there anything else from this season that is exciting you from MG?
Aziz: To me, the Lecce coat is number one. There are several other pieces that I enjoy, and which are in my shop such as the Gravina, the Alberobello, the Basantello, and others. Those pieces are each unique and have their own special niche. But like I said before, I always come back to the Lecce coat.
I unfailingly recommend that model to each of my clients. It is simply such a good look that I recommend a unique shirt and suit made by Silvano and then I recommend they place a Lecce coat over the top. To me, the Lecce coat is a stylish look from the way it moves when you walk, to its versatility, to its vibrant colors. It can complete any suit. Moreover, the colors aren’t boring but can be quite vibrant.
Even for myself, when I wear it, I feel so happy. I like the style, putting your hands in the pockets, switching the sides.
A lot of people compliment me and tell me "Nice coat". Before, they were saying "Nice suit". Unfortunately, the coat is covering my suit but it’s no matter. I even get compliments from the sidewalk as I’m out in the city. It’s quite remarkable.
I’m proud of the brand. In fact, I was always dreaming of having a coat like this to introduce to my clients so that when the temperature dropped, they could put it right over their suit and still look stylish. The Lecce coat is not for every season but rather when you feel a chill, or when it is a bit windy, or rainy. Whenever it’s a little unpleasant outside, it is the perfect coat to wear.
Nicolas: If you had to pick one piece of clothing that you love the most in the world, if you had to wear everyday the rest of your life, what would it be?
Aziz: Simple, a nice suit with a Lecce coat over it.
